our yes/no ingredients: what we love and what we avoid

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The Truth About Skincare Ingredients: Why Most "Expert" Advice Gets It Wrong


The beauty industry is flooded with misinformation:

- Many "clean beauty" brands use unproven claims to scare consumers away from safe, effective ingredients.

- Dermatologists still recommend outdated formulations based on incomplete or old research.

- Most skincare influencers promoting "toxic ingredient" lists have never read a single clinical study.

This isn’t just annoying—it’s bad for consumers. From essential oils increasing UV damage to "hypoallergenic" labels slapped on irritant-filled products, misinformation is causing real harm.

The Science-Backed Reality


1. The FDA isn't Infallible

Fact: The FDA doesn’t verify claims like "non-comedogenic [3] " or "hypoallergenic."

Our standard: We test every product for pore-clogging potential and allergenicity (because you deserve data, not marketing).


2. The "Clean Beauty" Deception


Natural ≠ Safe: Lavender oil (a "clean beauty" darling) and essential oils [1] increase sun sensitivity dramatically, yet sunscreen—*the only proven anti-cancer skincare*—is demonized by influencers.

Real cancer risk: Essential oils like citrus and bergamot [5] contain photosensitizing compounds linked to higher melanoma rates. In fair-skinned people, even drinking too much orange juice is associated with increased risk of melanoma! [4]


3. Who’s Really Qualified?

Often, skin care advice comes from:

- Estheticians repeating brand propaganda

- Doctors relying on outdated research

- Influencers who think "chemical-free" is a scientific term


Our Ingredient Philosophy: No Fear, Just Facts


The "Never Ever" List


Natural No-Nos:

  • Essential oils (lavender, citrus, bergamot): Cause invisible inflammation and UV damage [2][6][7]
  • Irritating botanicals (witch hazel, cinnamon): Strip skin barriers, worsening redness.
  • Pore-cloggers (coconut oil, jojoba oil), etc.): Feed acne and fungal overgrowth.

Synthetic Skips:


  • Ceramides (yes, really): clog pores in acne-prone users.
  • Parfum (fragrance): obviously--we're against needless irritation!
  • Anything banned in the E.U.

Our "Yes Please!" Ingredients


Proven Effective, Zero Nonsense:

Soothing botanicals

  • Centella asiatica: reduces redness
  • Aloe: calms irritated skin
  • Cucumber, plum, blackberry, and camellia seed oils: non-pore-clogging and nourishing
  • Turmeric: anti-inflammatory
  • Marshmallow root: soothing
  • Green, white and black tea extracts: powerful antioxidants

Low concentration liquid exfoliants:

  • Glycolic acid: dissolves dead skin gently
  • Mandelic acid: clears pores effectively without irritation
  • Lactic acid: great for exfoliating sensitive and rosacea-prone skin
  • Salicylic acid: clears and reduces surface and pore-trapped oil

Research-backed actives

  • THD (tetrahexyldecly ascorbate) Vitamin C: stabler and gentler than traditional forms.
  • Retinol: helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and sun damage
  • Niacinamide: gently reduces oil production and inflammation
  • Tranexamic acid: fades sunspots without irritating sensitive skin.
  • Medical-grade petrolatum: purified 3x, certified polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH)-free, research-backed for skin barrier restoration without pore-clogging potential or irritation
  • Phenoxyethanol (<1%): A safe way to prevent mold/bacteria (yes, we’ve got the batch reports).

The Bottom Line


We’re not here to:

- Profit from your fear of "toxins."
- Chase viral trends.

We’re here to:

- Formulate like scientists (because we are).
- Test like skeptics (first on our own sensitive skin).
- Share real research (not TikTok myths).

Your skin deserves better than internet hype. Have questions? We’ll give you answers—backed by 20+ years of data, not influencers.

Why Trust Us?

  • Chemist-formulated: Every batch crafted by actual experts, not dabblers.
  • Clinical rigor: Ingredients validated by unbiased published research.
  • Self-tested: If we wouldn’t use it on our rosacea/eczema/acne-prone skin, we won’t sell it.
Because skincare should heal—not just hype.

Shop our complete line

of gentle, research-backed skin care


Citations:

  1. Pilot study to assess the dermal irritation and sensitization potential of essential oil, botanical extract, and botanical isolate fragrances in consumer products; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 72, Issue 5, AB32
  2. Sarkic, A., & Stappen, I. (2018). Essential oils and their single compounds in cosmetics—A critical review. Cosmetics, 5(1), 11.
  3. Tory S, Nicole A, Nina S, Richard M, Comedogenicity in Cosmeceuticals: A Review of Clinical Relevance, Regulatory Gaps, and Future Directions, JAAD Reviews (2025), doi: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdrv.2025.09.002.
  4. A.R. Marley, M. Li, V.L. Champion, Y. Song, J. Han, X. Li, The association between citrus consumption and melanoma risk in the UK Biobank, British Journal of Dermatology, Volume 185, Issue 2, 1 August 2021, Pages 353–362, https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.19896
  5. Accidental bullous phototoxic reactions to bergamot aromatherapy oil. Kaddu et. al 2001https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(01)80554-5/fulltext
  6. Bergamot (Citrus bergamia Risso et Poiteau) essential oil: Biological properties, cosmetic and medical use. A review. Forlot et. al 2011https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10412905.2012.659527
  7. Volatile Compounds in Citrus Essential Oils: A Comprehensive Review. González-Mas et. al 2019https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2019.00012/full#h6

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