When people describe their skin as "combination" (which about 30% of Americans might), they're usually describing a tendency for their face to have an oilier "t-zone" (forehead, nose and chin) and drier cheeks, under eye area, and perhaps some dryness in the crease around the nose and around the mouth.
This skin type is a tricky one, because cleansers are typically formulated to remove oil from the surface. While this would certainly help an oily t-zone, overly detergent cleansers will exaggerate dryness that exists in other areas of the face. Similarly, most moisturizers are made for dry skin. Slathering on a typical moisturizer all over the face in a non-targeted way (including to an oily t-zone) will make the t-zone oilier still, and potentially contribute to clogged pores and breakouts.
So, what's the best approach? Well, first of all, it's important for combination skin types to use a mild cleanser that won't strip the drier areas of the face but can also effectively cleanse oilier areas. Second, using a moisturizer in a targeted way to address drier areas of the face only goes a long way to creating more balanced conditions.
What about sunscreen? Yes, this must be applied over the entire face daily for optimal skin health and to help keep the skin tone even. It's perfectly fine to apply a richer moisturizer only under the eyes and around the nose and mouth, as long as you then follow it with a lightweight SPF over the entire face that won't create shininess in the t-zone.
What about exfoliation? Well, that's a bit more complicated. Combination skin types are most likely to have different needs for exfoliation based on the season. In Winter and Fall, when the air is typically drier depending on where you live, a mild glycolic acid might be the best way to dissolve the dead skin cells that tend to make the face look flaky and dull. Moisturizers will better penetrate when you remove dead skin first!
In Summer and Spring, when humidity and temperatures are higher, lactic acid (for sensitive combination skin types) or mandelic acid (for oilier combination skin types) might be the better choice because both of these acids are capable of penetrating the pore and dissolving trapped oil. Lactic acid in particular is excellent for dissolving and preventing milia (small hard, white bumps that appear and tend to stick around).
1. Cleanse Smart
A mild, fragrance-free cleanser + cool water (hot water = increased oil production in the pores, drier skin surface).
- Regulates oil
- Calms redness
-Consider glycolic acid to dissolved dead skin
Finally: A routine that respects your skin’s complexity—no more tug-of-war.
